Facing Your Wrinkles

Over-the-counter beauty products can only go so skin deep.

It's going to happen. Wrinkles. Yours. In the mirror. Will anything turn back the clock? Retailers offer a dizzying array of "time in a bottle" products that seem to promise eternally youthful skin. Even treatments previously only offered by skin care professionals or doctors -- such as microdermabrasion and chemical peels -- are on the drugstore shelves.

But do any of them work? It depends on your expectations.

"If you want to appear a bit healthier, over-the-counter skin peels and microdermabrasion kits could help," says Pamela Phillips, M.D., a dermatologist at Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minn. "If you are looking for dramatic results, you may be disappointed."

A chemical peel involves applying a solution to the skin that dissolves skin layers, producing new, smoother skin. It's used to treat fine lines, especially around the eyes and mouth. Retail varieties use weaker or different chemicals than a dermatologist would.

With microdermabrasion, a skin care specialist uses a handheld device to blow crystals on the skin. It gently polishes the surface, stimulating skin growth. It may require up to a dozen visits to subtly reduce fine lines and crow's-feet. That process is hard to package in a box. True microdermabraders are considered surgical tools that can't be sold over the counter.

Of course, there's an array of over-the-counter wrinkle-reducing lotions. Researchers have found that products with vitamin A (retinol) or hydroxy acids are modestly effective.

Other active ingredients may be helpful, but more research is needed to determine their effectiveness. This category includes over-the-counter products made with alpha-lipoic acid (ALA), coenzyme Q-10, copper peptides, growth factors, soy isoflavones, tea extracts, vitamin C and vitamin E.

So what to do? Don't rely on advertising claims. Antiwrinkle creams are considered beauty products -- so regulation of their claims is nil. To avoid investing time and dollars in products that don't work well, see a dermatologist who can recommend a beneficial skin care regimen.

"Once time has taken a toll on the skin, it's hard to turn back," says Dr. Phillips. Avoiding the sun, using sunscreen and not smoking are the best ways to keep skin looking youthful longer.